Day 11 - Istanbul - NYC. Final entry

After an idyllic dinner, we awoke at 7 this morning merely to prepare for the end of our journey.

Our driver for the past 2 days of touring was waiting for us. The drive to the airport was 30 minutes, as we still viewed the sights along the way.  The Old Wall of the city, views of the palace and other sights we saw on the previous 2 days.

The problems occurred when we got to the Istanbul Airport.  I would like to call it organized chaos - but that would be too nice. Upon arrival, we had to x-ray all of our bags.  Try lifting a 50+ lb. bag onto a conveyor belt.  Thank goodness I brought my kids.
We then looked for the Delta check-in.  At Delta, a Delta representative said we MUST use the kiosk to get our boarding passes.
Well, the kiosks didn't recognize one of my credit cards (I charged the air on many different ones to use points), nor did it recognize Linda's passport.  The Rep was less than useless, as she knew NOTHING about how the machines worked - nor that we were ALLOWED to just get on line.

After wasting 20 minutes, we simply got on the Delta line.  Got our boarding passes, and went to (what we call) the TSA checkpoint.  More x-rays and checks. (my Athens corkscrew was confiscated!)

At this point we were in the main concourse.  More shopping, because we didn't do enough shipping on the other days!!!  Cuban Cigars (I hope no US officials read this!), more pashminas, etc.

When we got to the gate, there is a THIRD checkpoint to x-ray, and a pat down.  Not only that, once you go through there, you can't leave. No bathrooms, no food, etc.
So, we went back out to get our snacks, and take a WC  (Water Closet) pit stop.

The flight was LONG.  11 hours (with an added hour of sitting on the runway because the wind was wrong!).  We each watched 3-4 movies and several TV shows.

Upon landing at JFK, it was a zoo. I assume that the early morning weather caused delays so the lines were ridiculous.  I attribute our bad moods mostly to our exhaustion, and the overall depression that this holiday was over.  Getting through Customs/Immigration was a nightmare.

The passenger pickup area was just as bad as customs.  The cars couldn't find us at first.

But, we all made it, safe and sound - if not irritated a bit.


Now that I have a chance to reflect back on this trip, I can think about all that we experienced.  This trip was 2+ years in the making, between planning, emailing, booking, scheduling, checking, etc.

What would I change if I had to do this again?
           Absolutely nothing.

This is one of those times when high expectations are exceeded. And, exceeded greatly!!

Athens was amazing.  The restaurants we ate at were spectacular both in cuisine and views.  Touring the city, and the Acropolis was one of my life's dreams - and doing that with Linda, Jamie, and Josh made it that more special.  We were just a bit down, that the stay in Athens was ending when we boarded the ship. Had we known that was just the tip of this iceberg we called our vacation, we never would have felt that day.

The day at sea was a necessary respite - I would say more for David and Nat, as they had some jet lag as they just flew in.  But, it was a great day to just sit, chat, drink, and use the ship's facilities.

Speaking of the ship -  I highly recommend the Celebrity Equinox.   They run that cruise like a well oiled machine.  We had a great time, and would use Celebrity again without question.

The first port of Rhodes was exceptionally surprising.  We had no expectations, and had such a nice time touring the ancient city.  Taking a tour of the Jewish museum, the oldest synagogue in Greece was moving.  Listening and reading about how the holocaust affected the Jewish population there was quite moving.

The second port of Mykonos was so enjoyable - probably the most "fun" of our stops.  Renting the ATVs and riding around the island was a blast.  The meals were exceptional, and the beaches were beautiful.

Santorini - what can you say.  Perhaps the most visually stunning of the islands we visited.  The views were astounding.  The walk down (and up for the kids) Ammoudi was fun, if not exhausting.

Ephesus/Kusadasi - probably the most amazing of the stops.  Touring this INTACT ancient city was incredible.  Seeing how people lived centuries ago, with running water, force air heating, and indoor pluming - not to mention the artwork - astounding!!!
If there was any one disappointment it was the leather shopping in Kusadasi.  We were told that we MUST by leather good here.  Perhaps we stopped at the wrong places, but it seemed more geared to Europeans in the styles.

And, what can I say about Istanbul - except you need more that a day and a half to tour this city.  We all were nervous about being Turkey.  People would tell us "Be careful".
This city was amazing - and no less safe than being home in NYC ( no jokes, please).  Our guide was exceptional, and the history we learned was intriguing.

My personal memories are not just of the places we saw, the food we ate, or the history we learned.  It was the memories of sharing these experiences with the people I love most in this world.  I could have traveled to any location in the world with them, and had incredible memories just  because they were with me.
But, to experience this particular trip with them, is something I will carry with me for my lifetime.    I am sure we all feel the same way.

And, for that reason, I can assure my family that this will definitely NOT be the only trip and vacation.

So, for all of you reading this blog of our trip - I hope you enjoyed my sharing of our experiences.

Until our next trip, αντίο

Day 10 - Istanbul

Note to self - next cruise ensure that the stateroom is on the side NOT facing shore on the night prior to disembarking!  

At around 2am, the crew started to move the luggage onto the docks, making a racket.  So, I was up pretty much all night.

We all agreed to meet up at 7:45 to have breakfast.  Everyone was tired.   

Upon hitting shore, we had a 30 minute wait on the customs line.  Then we picked up our luggage and met up with Gonul.  We went to our hotel, the Istanbul Intercontinental and  checked in.   

I personally caused an hour delay due to, what I thought was, a lost piece of luggage.  

Well it was a piece I misplaced, and it caused us a delay.

We left the hotel at 9:30 am, and headed to the Blue Mosque.  

We walked through the Hippodrome, where ancient chariot races were held.  As we walked to the Blue Mosque, we saw a huge line to get tickets.  

Having limited time in Istanbul, we opted to take an exterior tour. 

Gonul walked us into the grounds and showed us the sights.  The mosque was the only one in the world with 6 minarets. We walked to the main entrance and looked in.   

Unfortunately, it was extremely crowded and we saw very little.

So we walked out and headed towards the Aya Sofya, a museum that was built as a church in the 5th century, and was converted to a mosque when the Ottoman Empire conquered Istanbul.  

We were really pushing our time to the limit - trying to get all of the critical cites in a day and a half.  

We quickly went to the Topkapi Palace, the residence of the Ottoman sultans during their 600 year reign of the empire.  

The grounds were expansive. It would be impossible for me to put down everything we saw.  Not just due to the volume of rooms we saw, but also the short time we spent on each.  

But we were impressed with each of the sultans bedrooms - all with fireplaces and running water (explained to us as a method of sound proofing - muffling sounds from the room). 

We toured the palaces harem, where the sultans wives and concubines lived.  The sultan had anywhere from 200 to 800 women in the harem. We toured the main quarters of this breathtaking palace. 

We dined on the palace grounds at the Konyali restaurant - which had spectacular views of the Bosporus and most of Istanbul.  

The meal was, again, excellent.  We each were served our meal in a brass covered dish. 

Very traditional. Out dishes of meat, steak, and lamb were one of the best so far.  They served us some traditional desserts with Turkish coffee.  

Once finished, we continued our tour of the palace. The kitchens, and rooms containing adorned weapons, jewelry, and other ancient items of the sultans.  

After the palace tour, we went to the Cisterns.  This is a colossal underground water storage facility also dating back to the 5th century.  A vast lines of roman columns supported the ceiling.    When used, the entire chamber was filled with water that flowed down from the mountains.  Today there was only a few feet of water, where fish swam.  

After the cisterns we hopped back on the van to head to our last stop - the Spice Market.  

This is similar to the grand bazaar, except solely for spices and candy.  Gonul brought us to a shop she knew where we bought candy, teas, and gifts.  

Soon we headed back to our hotel and bid farewell to our guide, Gonul.  She was excellent, and we would highly recommend her to anyone planning to visit this magnificent city. She shared personal stories that added to the volumes of informationP on the history of Istanbul and Turkey, that made the tour all the more enjoyable.  

After a brief rest, we headed to our final dinner on this vacation - Mikla.  The restaurant was at the top of a hotel.  

My ultra fantastic kids had informed us that THEY were taking US out to dinner, as a part Fathers Day gift and part thank you for the cruise. 

We first stopped at the rooftop bar, where we enjoyed a spectacular view of the city at sunset, while toasting the conclusion of our incredible journeys.   I assured the kids that this would not be the last of our family excursions, trips like this would become a family tradition. 

After sunset, we went down one floor to the restaurant.  

We were seated at the prime table - on a balcony that extended out and gave us a 180 degree view of Istanbul.  

What a way to end our trip.  

Gonul had told us that this restaurant was listed as one of the top 100 restaurants of the world - and it did not disappoint.  It was truly a gourmet meal. 

After dinner we took a short walk to the area where the kids had dinner the previous night.  The street looked like a pedestrian 6th avenue - but with restaurants and bars.  Overhead were rows of colored lights that spanned the width of the streets.  

Linda and I didn't stay, as we were exhausted. 

The kids continues up the boulevard to enjoy a little Istanbul night life before we left for reality.  

Day 9 - Istanbul

It was nice, for once, to not wake to an alarm. The ship was to pull into Istanbul at 1pm.  Linda and I woke at 8:15.  We went to the gym - I did a leisurely workout and Linda did a spin class with Jamie.  

After a light breakfast, we went back to the rooms, and packed.  

A bit depressing, knowing our vacation was coming to an end. 

We met up in the dining hall at 12:15 so that we could have a bite to eat before we would take out first tour of Istanbul.  

We met out travel guide, Gonul, and soon boarded out van.  There was a lot of traffic as there were 4 cruise ships in the port.  We made our way to the Dolmabahce Palace.  The last palace inhabited by a Sultan prior to the overthrow of the Sultan in 1922.  

The entrance was a long road, passing a beautiful fountain. 

Prior to entering, had to stop outside in order to put shoe covers over out shoes, as they protect every aspect of the place. 

The palace was exquisite. Just what you would expect from a sultan.  Not one detail overlooked. They do not allow photographs inside, so you'll have to take my word for it.  

The expanse of each room was incredible.  We first toured the wing where diplomats where greeted.  Huge chandeliers in each room, gold inlays all over, and wood mosaic inlayed floors.  The massive ceremonial hall had a huge domed ceiling, and gigantic Turkish rug in the center.  

We moved into the personal living quarters of the sultan.  His private Turkish bath, library, and even bathroom. 

We then went through the harem wing. It seems that all of the other areas did not allow women (during the Ottoman Empire) to mingle with men.  All the women, both wives, concubines, and the sultans mother, lived in the harem.  

We moved outdoors where the palace grounds bordered the Bosphorus.  

We exited the grounds and boarded or van to head to the Grand Bazaar. Traffic was horrendous and it took us a while. 

We exited the bus, where out tour guide bought us simits - sesame encrusted giant bagels (that's the only way I can describe them). She also bought several smaller rolls, that were delish!

We then went to a rug shop.  After coffee, tea, and much haggling, Jamie and Josh purchased a beautiful hand woven Turkish rug.  

From there we went to the Grand Bazaar.  It would be quite easy to get lost in their. It was a maze of thousands of covered streets of shops.  

We stopped at a pashmina booth and the girls bought several. 

We then moved on to a leather shop. 

We all came out happy, if just a bit poorer.   We then boarded our van and headed back to the ship. Linda and I took the shopping bags and returned to the ship, Gonul dropped the kids at a local restaurant. 

Dinner aboard was spectacular.  The meal itself was excellent, but we really got to know our waiter, Alex.  

He shares his life's story with us, as ell has his family history.  It was apparent that he loved his job because he loved meeting people. 

After dinner, we went back to the stateroom to move the luggage out for pickup. 

The kids returned and did the same.  They shared the story of their dinner, which by all accords, was beyond any of their expectations.  

We then moved to the rear bar for our final on-board cigar and drink.  

The city of Istanbul was lit up before us. It was an incredible sight.  

Asia on our left, and Europe on our right.  

We soon went to sleep.  Our last evening on the ship. 

Day 8 - Ephesus

We tried to meet a bit earlier so that we could meet our guide.  

8 minutes earlier....

The port was at the city of Kusadasi.  We made our way off the ship and quickly found the "Howard's Party" sign held by our guide, Mehmet. He led us a few blocks away to our tour van.  The streets were crazy, packed with tour busses, and it was difficult for the driver to make his way down. 

But soon enough we were on the 20-30 minute trip to the ancient city of Ephesus.  

During the ride, Mehmet both fed us tidbits of historic facts on Ephesus and Turkey, and quizzed us on our current knowledge. 

If this was a test, we failed miserably. 

He was both extremely knowledgable about his country and its history, as well as very enthusiastic in his sharing that with us. 

We entered the city at the main gate and Mehmet huddled us under a tree to further prep us for the walk through the city.

It would also be one of our final places to get shade until we exited the city.  

We then walked down the main entry street, The Arcadian Way,  and viewed the full city.  

I say full city, because we were able to see most of what was excavated.  However, Mehmet told us that only 12% of the actual city has been excavated!  

The main gate on the street was very narrow - we were told this was by design to ensure that chariots did not enter the city.  

We stopped to tour the homes of the wealthier inhabitants.  The details in these homes was amazing. Heated floors, indoor plumbing, kitchens, bathrooms, etc.  Each room was adorned with mosaics, frescos, and marble.  

Across from the homes we walked through the public baths and the public toilets.  

We then made our way down to the library.  An incredible sight that reminded me of the entrance to the temple in "Indiana Jones".  

At the foot of the library there was a menorah chiseled into the steps - some proof of the presence of Judaism in this city.  

From there we walked past a huge stone theater - still in use as some major artists have performed in this ancient outdoor venue. 

As we exited the city, we stopped for a necessary health break, and also bought 6 cups of freshly squeezed orange juice.  

We boarded our van and toured past the church of St. Peter, and remnants of the Temple of Artemus. 

We walked to a training center for Turkish rug weavers.  We were shown how the weaving was done, and how silk was made. Were were served Turkish coffee and cold Turkish apple tea.  

As the tour ended, they attempted a hard sell for us to buy the products.  

We escaped without a purchase and went to a local eatery, The Agora Restaurant, where we lunched on our first Turkish meal.  

As opposed to the Greek meals, this one revolved around meats. 

Two different beef dishes, skewered chicken, baked mushrooms, Turkish pizza and salads.  

Everything was delicious.  The waiter asked us to rate them in Trip Advisor, and we assured him we would. 

Our tour ended with our return to Kusadasi.  We said our farewells to Mehmet and proceeded to the Bazaars to shop. 

We had been told that the leather shops were great. 

We were greatly disappointed.  Although no one was looking for jackets, the girls were disappointed with the quality of the handbags.  

After a few more shops, Linda and I took off back to the ship, as the kids continued to explore the city.  

Back on the ship, we quickly changed and went to the pool.  It was an extremely relaxing afternoon.  Soon, Jamie and Josh joined us and we sat in the shade.  

When the ship pulled out at 6, the captain informed us that we would be doing 21 knots - and it showed in the wind around the pool. We soon retired to our cabins to rest and shower for dinner. 

This was the last "formal" meal on the ship.  We were fairly casually dressed, but other groups were really dressed formal, in tuxedos and gowns.  

Dinner was good. Our waiter hovered over us, bringing us several dishes of each course.  This night was the meal where the baked Alaska was served.  

It was delicious.  However, I did miss the old days where the wait staff all entered carrying the whole baked Alaska together.  

Times change. 

This was to be our last dinner together on the ship, as the kids planned to dine in Istanbul tomorrow evening. 

After dinner, we went up to the rear deck for drinks and cigars.  As the ship was doing over 20 knots, the wind was brutal.  We sat briefly for maybe 10 minutes, before we all retired for the evening.  

Day 7 - Santorini

We again met for a quick breakfast.  The exhaustion and aches and pains of the prior day was behind us, except for David's toe - which was black & blue.  He was forced to change into sandals. 

We encountered no lines when catching the tender to shore.  The view of Santorini was incredible.  Massive cliffs with cities of white perched at the top.

The tender left us at the dock at the bottom of the cliff from the city of Firá. There are 3 modes of transportation up to the city.  

Walk the winding path up to the top. 

Take donkeys on that same path. 

Take a 2 minute tram ride. 

There was no wait at the tram so you can guess which we opted for.  

Our plan was to quickly get a taxi to the city of Oia (ee-wah) and explore, and return to Firá by the end of the day to make our way down to the tender.  

The taxi ride to Oia was 20 minutes.  The views from the walkways of the city were spectacular.  It didn't matter which way you turned.  The city itself was beautiful.  We were there early enough to beat the crowds. There were 5 cruise ships in port and it would soon get packed.  

We walked back and forth, stopping into quaint little shops and galleries.  

At the far end of Oia is a sort of small castle top from which there are spectacular panoramic views of the island.  

From there we walked down the 200+ steps to the shore town of Ammoudi. Probably not even a town, but a series of 4 to 5 restaurants at the edge of the caldera.  We walked down, making our best attempts to avoid the piles of donkey shit that was all over the winding staircase.

  

At the bottom, we sat down in a restaurant called Sunset.  We sat overlooking the water.  

The waiter took us over to see the fresh fish, so that we could select what we wanted.  

We again opted for the Red Snapper, at the waiters suggestion.  With two salads (Greek and Santorini salad), Oven Cheese, olives and fried tomato balls - it was plenty.  

The oven cheese was so good, we ordered a second helping.  

As it was still early, they had to fire up the grill for us - so the snapper came out last. 

It was beautiful and looked amazing.  

IT WAS!  The vote at the table was that this meal was better than the one in Mykanos.  

The waiter brought us desserts that ended another perfect lunch. 

As lunch ended, the kids opted to trek back up the 200+ steps to Oia.  Linda and I rejected that option and tried to catch a taxi.  

Well, it would have been faster and easier to walk - as no taxis were available, with 5 cruise ships in the harbor.  One of the waiters took a private car and shuttled us and another couple to Oia.  We arruved there after the kids, and they even had time to shop a bit!

The problem now was how to catch a taxi back to Firá. The taxi station was swarming with damn tourists!   Not a cab to be seen, and people were lining up for the public bus by the dozen.  Several times, when airport service cars (taxis?) pulled in to drop off people, Josh had attempted to ask for a ride back - with no luck. 

When finally the bus arrived, the crowds ran towards it - and another car service also pulled up.  Josh got us a ride back to Oia!   He da man!

We arrived in Firá, and the streets were packed.  We strolled a bit, and found our destination - the Fish Spa!  

For those that don't know of these, it is a spa where you soak your feet in a tub of fish that eat at your dead skin.  

It was hysterical.  First we all had to wash down our feet. Then we all sat on the chairs and put out feet in. 

The fishies immediately started to feast - and tickle the hell out of us.  It really was quite an experience. 

We walked out with much softer feet, and proceeded to wind our way back to the tram to see what the line looked like. 

It was crazy!   We had to get in line to ensure we got back to the ship in time. 

As Linda and I waited, the kids wandered away to get some snacks.  

They returned with frozen Greek yogurt for the elders.  

As we moved forward in the line, Linda was able to purchase one if the last remaining gifts on out list, and Nat finally found a hat that fit!   

The tender ride back to the ship was uneventful.  We picked up our passports, as we would need them to disembark in Turkey. For a while, they couldn't find Jamie and Josh's passports - but that was quickly rectified.  

As the kids retired to their cabin for showers and naps, Linda went to the gym and I headed to the pool for refreshing dip. 

We soon met on our balconies to watch the Mediterranean sunset while sipping wine.   

The Med was so calm, it was like a lake. 

The sun set over one of the nameless Greek isles, and life is good. 

We made our way down to the Italian specialty restaurant on board the ship and had our best meal on board.  The wait staff bent over backwards and served us everything on the menu.  

By my recollection, we had about 5 courses - all excellent.  

After dinner, we rolled out to the top deck for after-dinner cigars and drinks.  

By midnight, Linda and I turned in, as we will be up early to meet our tour guide in Ephesus.